Free tool

3D Print Cost Calculator

Find the real cost of a print: filament, electricity, printer wear, failed prints and your time. Then see what to charge. Quick mode needs six numbers from your slicer and your bills.

Filament
Your slicer shows this after slicing.
Time and power
Average draw while printing, not the power supply rating.
Selling price
200% markup = selling at 3× your cost.

Prices start as examples. Enter your own for an exact result.

Your cost

Filament
$3.00
Electricity
$0.12
Total cost per print$3.12
Suggested selling price$9.37$6.24 profit · 67% margin

Energy used: 0.72 kWh

An estimate from your inputs, not a slicer prediction.

How the cost is calculated

The calculator adds up each part of the cost separately, so you can see where the money goes.

Filament

filament cost = print weight ÷ spool weight × spool price

Electricity

kWh = average watts ÷ 1000 × print hourselectricity cost = kWh × price per kWh

Advanced mode

printer wear = (printer price ÷ lifetime hours + maintenance per hour) × print hoursfailed prints = (filament + electricity + wear) × (1 ÷ (1 − failure rate) − 1)your time = hands-on minutes ÷ 60 × hourly rateselling price = total cost × (1 + markup)

Worked example

A phone stand uses 150 g of PLA from a $20, 1 kg spool and prints in 6 hours. The printer averages 120 W and electricity costs $0.17 per kWh.

PartCalculationCost
Filament150 ÷ 1000 × $20$3.00
Electricity0.12 kW × 6 h = 0.72 kWh × $0.17$0.12
Total (Quick mode)$3.12
Printer wear$500 ÷ 5000 h × 6 h$0.60
Failed prints (5%)$3.72 × 0.0526$0.20
Your time10 min at $20/h$3.33
Total (Advanced mode)$7.25

Electricity is only about 4% of the quick-mode cost here. Once you count your own time, the real cost more than doubles, which is why a selling price based on filament alone is usually too low. At a 200% markup this stand would sell for about $21.75.

Tips for accurate numbers

  • Use the net filament weight of the spool (usually 1 kg), not the weight with the reel.
  • Take print weight and time from your slicer after slicing the exact model and settings.
  • Use the price per kWh from your electricity bill, including taxes.
  • Measure your printer with a plug-in energy meter once; then you know its real average.

Frequently asked questions

What is the biggest cost in a 3D print?

For a plain PLA print you keep, filament is usually the biggest cost and electricity is small. When you sell prints, your hands-on time often becomes the largest cost, so use Advanced mode and give your time a fair rate.

How much electricity does a 3D printer use?

Many desktop FDM printers average roughly 80 to 150 W while printing PLA. A heated chamber, high bed temperatures or ABS push it higher. The number on the power supply (for example 350 W) is the maximum, not the average. A plug-in energy meter gives you the exact figure for your printer.

Where do I find the print weight?

Slice the model. Most slicers, including Bambu Studio, PrusaSlicer, OrcaSlicer and Cura, show the filament used in grams and the estimated print time in the preview or summary.

Should I include failed prints?

Yes, if you sell prints or run long jobs. A 5% failure rate means you need about 1.05 attempts per good print. The calculator spreads that extra filament, power and machine time over every print.

What markup should I use when selling?

It depends on your market and how much finishing a part needs. Many sellers price at two to four times their cost so that design work, listing and customer messages are paid for. Check what similar items sell for before you decide.

Is this as accurate as my slicer?

The calculator turns your inputs into a cost; it does not predict filament or time itself. Take weight and time from your slicer and the result is as accurate as those numbers and your prices.

Last updated: October 27, 2026